First Istanbul Impressions

We arrived at dawn and the airport’s bustle belied the sleepiness of the city. Istanbul strikes immediately as a crossroads city. Dumpy tenements worthy of Eastern Europe mesh awkwardly with luxury condos, all eventually fading away into the city’s more ancient districts. The airport’s international arrivals board shows the city’s true nature, too. Flights were…

Passau’s Power Brokers…and Beer

A misunderstanding – we swear it wasn’t our fault – had us standing at the train station in the bustling metropolis of Plattling, in the far southeast corner of Bavaria. Our ticket agent had apparently assumed we understood the arcane rules and regulations with respect to travel on the multitude of different types of trains…

Into Bavaria

At some point between the heavenly experience of staring down all the dusty bottles and samples of myriad unblended lambics over the weekend and relaxing in the biergartens of Bavaria, I noticed that I am no longer 21 years old. I cannot handle this intensity the way I used to. We spent a day in…